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Reversible 'Crochet Brioche' Hat

A Free Crochet Pattern
by Megan Mills
megan@kiwi.gen.nz


Crochet Brioche Hat

    Hello fellow crafty people. :)

I have lost count of the number of crocheters who like the brioche hat and tea cosy but don't knit and have asked for a crocheted version. I wasn't aware of any crochet that looks like brioche. I put my thinking cap on and fiddled around a bit and this is what I came up with. So just for you folk who wanted it in crochet, here it is - finally. When I was making it several people thought it was knitted and then got a surprise when they saw me using a hook! Whether you make it as a hat or tea cosy I hope it warms your world.

Enjoy! ...Megan

Size

Approximately 60cm circumference at the base and 18cm tall in its relaxed state. Fits an average adult head (mine!)

Materials

2 x 50g balls of Touch Yarns Pure Merino Wool that Knits as 4 ply. To give you an idea it recommends 3.25mm knitting needles and a 50g ball is about 225 metres in length. You could use 1 ball if you're willing to use both tails to make it double. However you can substitute any yarn that gives the required gauge and feels nice to you.

4mm crochet hook.

Some hat elastic if you want to make the brimless version and boost elasticity for repeated journeys on and off your head.

Abbreviations:

ss slip stitch
ch chain
dc double crochet (US single crochet)
htr half treble (US half double crochet)
st stitch
ST Special Turn (see below)

How to do the Special Turn

Work the last htr of the row and do NOT turn.
Work one tight little chain.
Insert your hook from far side to near side through the front loop (it is in fact the back loop in a moment), yarn over hook and draw through the loop. Now turn. Yarn over hook and draw through both loops on hook. Work a dc into the side of the stitch just completed. You have now made a 2-stitch tall substitute for the first htr of the row.

Click the play button in the window below and with a little luck you'll see a video tutorial demonstrating how to work a dc into the side of a stitch.

Note however that this is three stitches tall (it substitutes for a treble - US dc) and does not do the preliminary tight little chain I use in this pattern. Neither does it go through the front (back) loop when making the turn.

Gauge

6 rows of htr worked through the back loops is 4cm tall - allowing the 'rib' to relax (that will be 3 'ridges' and 3 'valleys'). 10 htr is 5cm wide.

Special Notes – Please read before commencing the pattern

The yarn is used DOUBLED throughout. I pull a tail from the centre of each ball.

Work through the BACK LOOPS of all stitches unless instructed otherwise.

The 'back ridge' is the line of bumps on the back of a chain. It is the loop that does not form the 'V' part of the chain. Working through the back ridge is also demonstrated at the youtube video mentioned above.

Instructions

Using the yarn DOUBLED Ch 37 (brimless) or 50 (turn-up brim). Turn.

Row 1: Ss into the back ridge of the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 4 ch. Dc into the back ridge of the next 8 ch. Htr into the back ridge of the next 23 (36) ch. (36, 49 stitches). It is correct that the row graduates in height.

Remember from now on to work in the back loops unless instructed otherwise.

Row 2: ST, 22 (35) htr, 8 dc, 3 ss, turn. Do not do a ch.

Row 3: Do not skip the first ss, 3 ss, 8 dc, 23 (36) htr.

Row 4: ST, 22 (35) htr, 5 dc, 1 ss, turn. Do not do a ch.

Row 5: Do not skip the first ss, 1 ss, 5 dc, 23 (36) htr.

Row 6: ST, 22 (35) htr, 5dc, 1 dc going through the front loop of the ss from the previous row and the st that ss was worked in, 2 dc, 2 ss, 1 ss going through the front loop of the ss from the earlier row and the st that ss was worked in, 2 ss, 1ch, turn.

Row 7: 1 ss into each of the next 5 ss, 8 dc, 23 (36) htr.

Rows 2 to 7 form a 'gore'. Repeat them another 12 times.

Check as you go - you might require one or two gores more or less depending on the particular head you're mking this for and the elasticity of your yarn.

Joining Row: Take the beginning edge of the hat and bring it up to align with the last row you have worked so that the beginning edge is farthest from you. In a moment, after you turn, it will be closest to you.

This next manoeuvre is easier, after you've done the first st, if you face the base of the hat away from you. Then you will 'join' into the edge on your right, 'work' into the edge on your left.

ST, *remove the hook from the loop, insert hook under both loops of the corresponding st on the beginning row from underneath, put loop on hook again and pull it through (yes, you are pulling it 'downwards' – or from the 'outside' to the 'inside'), 1 htr into next st on last row. Repeat from * for a further 21 (34) htr, then continue with this joining method for 8 dc and the final 5 ss.

Finishing

If desired work one round of dc at the rate of two sts to every row around the base of the hat. Use the tail at the crown and run it through the edge sts twice and draw up securely to close the ring. There are no seams. Just tidy away the ends and enjoy!


Crochet Brioche Hat: Crown view

Options

If you want to use hat elastic you can either run it through the ends of the rows or do a round of dc evenly all around the bottom of the hat to make a tiny casing for the elastic.



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© Megan Mills, 31 January 2010

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