Reversible 'Crochet Brioche' Tea Cosy

I have lost count of the number of crocheters who like the brioche tea cosy (or hat) but don't knit and have asked for a crocheted version. I wasn't aware of any crochet that looks like brioche. I put my thinking cap on and fiddled around a bit and this is what I came up with. So just for you folk who wanted it in crochet, here it is - finally. When I was making it several people thought it was knitted and then got a surprise when they saw me using a hook! Whether you make it as a hat or tea cosy I hope it warms your world.

Enjoy! ...Megan

Size

Materials

4mm crochet hook.

Some hat elastic if you want to 'draw in' the base of the cosy and boost its elasticity for repeated journeys on and off your tea pot. How much you need will vary on how much you want to draw it in.

Abbreviations:
ss	slip stitch
ch	chain
dc	double crochet (US single crochet)
htr	half treble (US half double crochet)
st	stitch
ST	Special Turn (see below)

How to do the Special Turn

Click the in the window below and with a little luck you'll see a video tutorial demonstrating how to work a dc into the side of a stitch.

Note however that this is three stitches tall (it substitutes for a treble - US dc) and does not do the preliminary tight little chain I use in this pattern. Neither does it go through the front (back) loop when making the turn.

Gauge

Special Notes – Please read before commencing the pattern

The yarn is used DOUBLED throughout. I pull a tail from the centre of each ball.

Work through the BACK LOOPS of all stitches unless instructed otherwise.

The 'back ridge' is the line of bumps on the back of a chain. It is the loop that does not form the 'V' part of the chain. Working through the back ridge is also demonstrated at the youtube video mentioned above.

I make the spout and handle holes slightly different sizes. You can easily change the sizes to suit your teapot by making more or less chains and skipping the corresponding number of stitches. You may wish to make both holes the same size. In that case make sure the handle can fit through.

I leave a hole at the top of the cosy for the knob of my teapot lid or plunger to poke through. If you don't want a hole run the last tail through the edge stitches all around a couple of times and draw up securely before tidying away the end.

Instructions

Row 1: Ss into the back ridge of the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 4 ch. Dc into the back ridge of the next 8 ch. Htr into the back ridge of the next 23 ch. (36 stitches). It is correct that the row graduates in height.

Remember from now on to work in the back loops unless instructed otherwise.

Row 2: ST, 22 htr, 8 dc, 3 ss, turn. Do not do a ch.

Row 3: Do not skip the first ss, 3 ss, 8 dc, 23 htr.

Row 4: ST, 22 htr, 5 dc, 1 ss, turn. Do not do a ch.

Row 5: Do not skip the first ss, 1 ss, 5 dc, 23 htr.

Row 6: ST, 22 htr, 5dc, 1 dc going through the front loop of the ss from the previous row and the st that ss was worked in, 2 dc, 2 ss, 1 ss going through the front loop of the ss from the earlier row and the st that ss was worked in, 2 ss, 1ch, turn.

Row 7: 1 ss into each of the next 5 ss, 8 dc, 23 htr.

Rows 2 to 7 form a 'gore'. Repeat them another 5 times.

Opening for Spout

Row 2: Do not skip the first ss, 3 ss, 8 dc, 23 htr, working into the back ridge of the chains across the spout hole gap. Check now that you have 23 htr. If not then feel free to fudge a st either way to get it back on track.

The last two rows were the equivalent of Rows 2 and 3 in the gores. Continue with rows 4 to 7 to complete the gore. Work another 5 gores and then rows 2 to 5 of the gore again.

Opening for Handle

Row 2: Do not skip the first ss, 1 ss into each of the 5 ss, 8 dc, 23 htr remembering to working into the back ridge of the chains from the previous row. Once again check that you have the correct number of stitches now.

Joining Row: Take the beginning edge of the cosy and bring it up to align with the last row you have worked so that the beginning edge is farthest from you. In a moment, after you turn, it will be closest to you.

This next manoeuvre is easier, after you've done the first st, if you face the base of the cosy away from you. Then you will 'join' into the edge on your right, 'work' into the edge on your left.

ST, *remove the hook from the loop, insert hook under both loops of the corresponding st on the beginning row from underneath, put loop on hook again and pull it through (yes, you are pulling it 'downwards' – or from the 'outside' to the 'inside'), 1 htr into next st on last row. Repeat from * for a further 21 htr, then continue with this joining method for 8 dc and the final 5 ss.

Finishing

Options

If you'd like to shag the cosy to make it extra-thick and self-lined there are convenient lines of loops available on both sides. To learn how to shag you can find instructions in Favorite Mittens, Best Traditional Mitten Patterns from Fox & Geese & Fences, Flying Geese and Partridge Feet by Robin Hansen, published by Down East Books. The copy I have was printed in 2005.