|yrn||yarn round needle|
|NS||bring yarn to the near side between the needle tips|
|FS||take yarn to the far side between the needle tips|
|BK||brioche knit, knit the next st tog with its accompanying strand|
|BP||brioche purl, purl the next st tog with its accompanying strand|
|B||followed by a number - the number of stitches to do in BB as is appropriate for the round of the pattern you are on. Slipping a st counts as a st.|
|Dec||slip the next st kw tog with its accompanying strand, K1 (the CC P st), pass the slipped st and accompanying strand over the st just knitted.|
|K2T||K 2 together.|
|DD||S1 kw (a MC st), K1, pass the slipped st with its accompanying strand over the st just knitted, return it to the left needle. Pull the 2nd st on the left needle over the 1st st and return the 1st st to the right needle.|
Round 1 MC: *BK, NS, S1 pw. Repeat from * but do not take the yarn back between the needle tips after slipping 1 pw. Allow it to make a diagonal loop over the right needle. After the last S1 pw of the round, yrn. Drop MC on the near side.|
Round 2 CC: *S1 pw, yrn, BP. Repeat from * to the end of the round, being careful to catch the MC accompanying strand along with the last st of the round. Drop CC on the near side.
NB: When you change colours from round to round do NOT twist the yarns around each other and be careful not to pull too tightly as you start the new round. You want the diagonal strand at the changeover point to match all the others.
Rounds 1 and 2 form the pattern.
|FBB||Flat Bicolour Brioche – when working between the spout and handles holes you will work flat. This will require sliding stitches to the other end of the circular needle or moving to the other side of the slot without turning in order to be able to work with the other yarn.|
Row 1 (MC, right side): S1 pw, *NS, S1 pw, BK. Repeat from * to last st, K1. Do not turn.
Row 2 (CC, right side): S1 pw, NS, *BP, S1pw, yrn. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, S1 pw, K1 (allowing yarn to make a strand over the right needle). Turn.
Row 3 (MC, wrong side): S1 pw, NS, *BP, S1 pw, yrn. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, S1 pw, K1 (allowing yarn to make a strand over the right needle). Do not turn.
Row 4 (CC, wrong side): S1 pw, *NS, S1 pw, BK. Repeat from * to last st, K1. Turn.
Rows 1 to 4 form the pattern.
|Bi-rib||*(MC K1), (CC NS, P1, FS). Repeat from *. Be careful not to pull the yarns too tightly as you strand them behind the work.|
- 2 x 50g balls of double knitting wool (8 ply) with a recommended gauge on the ball band of about 22 sts and 30 rows to a 10cm x 10cm area. I used Cleckheaton Country 8-ply which has a recommended gauge on the ball band of 22 sts and 30 rows to 10x10cm when worked with 4mm (US6, UK8) needles.
- Hat Elastic
- 40cm (16") 4mm (UK 8, US 6) circular needle
- Set of 4mm (UK 8, US 6) double pointed needles
- Or you may use two circulars or one long circular to work the small circumference if you know the two-circs or magic loop methods.
- Stitch holder (I like to use another circular needle).
- Wool Needle (for tidying away ends and threading in elastic)
- Crochet Hook (optional)
From the centre of one ridge to the centre of the next (spanning the valley) is 1.3cm when the knitting is in its relaxed state.
NB: If ever instructed to slip a stitch always slip any accompanying strand of the other colour with it as well (if there is one).
Leaving 15cm (6") tails use the circular needle and cast on 60 sts, using the tubular cast for 1x1 rib. The ribbed German cast on with one strand in MC and one strand in CC is also good, make the first cast-on st a K with MC. You can use another cast on if you prefer, but make sure it is a little loose.
If you do not know the tubular cast on for rib you can find it in The Knitter's Handbook by Montse Stanley, published by Reader's Digest. If you do not know the ribbed German cast on you can find instructions and diagrams in Knitting Around by Elizabeth Zimmermann, published by Schoolhouse Press. She calls it K2, P2 casting on. For our purposes we would alternate just one K with one P instead of two with two.
Being careful not to twist the work, join into a circle. After completing your cast-on of choice do this Foundation Row once only. Using MC: *K1, NS, S1 pw. Repeat from * but do not take the yarn back between the needle tips after slipping 1 pw. Allow it to make a diagonal loop over the right needle. After the last S1 pw of the round, yrn. Drop MC on the near side.
Commence BB on Round 2.
Continue in BB for a total of 4 rounds (the foundation round plus three more). If you used a non-tubular cast on do another 2 rounds for a total of six all together.
Now split for the Handle Hole
Take MC to FS. Starting with Row 1, FBB over 60 sts for 4 rows.
Now split for Spout Hole
Row 1, MC: FBB for 26 sts, DD, K1. Do not turn. Put remaining sts of Round on a holder.
Row 2, CC: Slide to the start of the last row and FBB over 28 sts.
Continue in FBB (starting with Row 3) for another 12 rows.
Break off yarn (leaving tails long enough to weave in later) and put these sts on a holder.
Put the other half of the sts on a circular needle and rejoin yarns at the base of the Spout Hole.
Row 1, MC: S1, K2T, PSSO, FBB over the next 27 sts.
Continue in FBB over these 28 sts (starting with Row 2) for another 13 rows.
Closing the Spout Hole
FBB over the next 28 sts and then continue right on in the same direction over the next 28 sts from the holder.
Work 5 more rows of FBB over these 56 sts.
Shaping the Top
Round 1 MC: FBB 8, Dec, FBB 16, Dec, FBB 16, Dec, FBB to end. Do not turn.
Round 2 CC: FBB 8, *S2 pw (both MC sts), yrn, FBB 15. Repeat from *, S2 pw (both MC sts), yrn, FBB to end. Turn.
Round 3 MC: FBB 9, *P next 2 sts tog (and the accompanying strand), FBB 15. Repeat from *, P next 2 sts tog (and the accompanying strand), FBB to end.
Do 1 row in FBB.
Closing the Handle Hole
Continue working BB for 4 Rounds, working right over the join in the same way as when closing the Spout Hole.
Round 1 MC: B6, *Dec, B8. Repeat from * ending round with B2 instead of B8.
Round 2 CC: B6, *S2 pw (both MC sts), yrn, B7. Repeat from * ending round with B1 instead of B7.
Round 3 MC: B6, *K next 2 sts tog (both MC sts and the accompanying CC strand), B7. Repeat from * ending round with B1 instead of B7. You now have 40 sts and may want to change to double pointed needles now.
Do 3 rounds in BBR.
Round 1 MC: *Dec, B1, K2T, B3. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Round 2 CC: *FS, S1 pw, NS, S2 pw, yrn, B3. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Round 3 MC: *DD, B3. Repeat from * to the end of the round. You now have 20 sts.
Do 1 rounds of BB.
Round 1: Using both MC and CC do 1 round of Bi-rib (not Prime Rib) - working the MC knits together with their accompanying CC strands.
Round 2 MC: *SSK. Repeat from * to the end of the round. You now have 10 sts.
Cast off by doing SSK all the way around like this: Slip the next st kw, *Slip the next st kw, insert the left needle through the 2 just-slipped sts on the right needle and Knit them together from this position. Now treat the first st on the right needle as if it is already the first of the 2 slipped sts in the move just described and repeat from *.
Tidy away the ends and run hat elastic through the bottom of the cosy and tie off securely. Check before you tie tightly and cut that the cosy will fit over the pot! If you have not used a tubular cast on you might like to do a round of dc (US sc) around the base of the cosy and then run the hat elastic through that.
Now make yourself a nice hot cuppa, pop the cosy on the pot and Enjoy!