Materials
Naturally chunky 14 ply yarn. If you can not get this yarn then any yarn that you like that produces the required gauge and feels good to you will be fine.
6mm crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge.
Wool needle for tidying away ends

Gauge: The first 5 rounds produce a disc 10cm (4 inches) in diameter.

Finished Size: 30cm (12 inches) in diameter.

Special Stitch Notes: Please read all these instructions first.

ds = Daisy Stitch. Approaching from the left-hand side insert hook through the back ridge of the ch just made, yoh, draw through a loop, insert hook into one strand only on the left-hand front side of the last daisy (this was the final loop drawn up on the previous daisy), yoh, draw through a loop, insert hook into same space the last daisy finished, yoh, draw through a loop, insert hook into next st, yoh, draw through a loop, yoh, draw through all loops on hook, ch 1.

To make a nice daisy stitch do not let the loops tighten up. Hold them in place against the hook as you go to draw through the subsequent loops and apply a little upward pressure with the hook as you draw the loops through the whole group. The loop drawn through the same space as the last daisy finished should be a little longer than all the other loops.

Note: The ds above is a ‘single’ ds because it took up a loop from 1 more stitch before the final ‘yoh, draw through all loops on hook, ch 1.’ A Double Daisy Stitch ‘dds’ will pull loops up through two stitches more and a Triple Daisy Stitch ‘tds’ pulls up through three more. This is the means by which increases and decreases are achieved when doing Daisy Stitch.

To start a round you need to do an initial daisy stitch (this example is for an initial single ds): 3 ch (keep the 3rd chain loose so you can work into it at the end of the round), insert hook through the back ridge of the 2nd ch from hook, yoh, draw through a loop, insert hook into the back ridge of the next ch, yoh, draw through a loop, insert hook into the same space the 3ch came from, yoh, draw through a loop, insert hook into next st, yoh, draw through a loop, yoh, draw through all loops on hook, ch 1.

The neatest finish is obtained by fastening off after rounds 3, 5, 7, etc and starting the next round somewhere else from where the last round finished. I do not instruct you to fasten off all the time in the pattern – it is up to you what you prefer. Work over loose ends as you go. Any that are left are hidden away when you have finished using a wool needle.

Special Note on Sizing
If you don’t get quite the same gauge and need to do more rounds to make your beret bigger then the rate of increase is 8 more daisy stitches in each daisy stitch round. Spaced evenly, of course.

Pattern
Round 1: Make a double loop of yarn around your thumb and into it work 8dc. The tail can be used later to tighten up the centre hole.

Round 2: Work 8 ds. To seal the round nicely insert hook through the right-hand side of the first daisy of the round and draw a loop through that and all the other loops on the hook. Do this for all daisy stitch rounds to avoid a hole in the work.

Round 3: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (16 dc).

Round 4: Work ds all around (16 ds).

Round 5: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (32 dc).

Round 6: (ds, ds, dds) x 8. (24 ds).

Round 7: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (48 dc).

Round 8: (ds, dds) x 16. (32 ds).

Round 9: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (64 dc).

Round 10: (ds, dds, ds, dds, dds) x 8. (40 ds).

Round 11: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (80 dc).

Round 12: (ds, dds, dds) x 16. (48 ds).

Round 13: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (96 dc).

Round 14: (ds, dds, dds, dds, ds, dds, dds) x 8. (56 ds).

Round 15: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (112 dc).

Round 16: (ds, dds, dds, dds) x 16. (64 ds).

Round 17: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (128 dc).

Round 18: Working into the back loops of the previous round: (dds, dds, dds, tds, dds, dds, tds) x 8. (56 ds). Working into the back loop creates a turning edge before the decreases.

Round 19: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (112 dc).

Round 20: (dds, dds, tds) x 16. (48 ds).

Round 21: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (96 dc).

Round 22: (dds, dds, tds, dds, tds) x 8. (40 ds).

Round 23: Work 1dc into the top of each stitch and each ‘ch' that finished off a ds on the previous round (80 dc).

Round 24: 4 ch, *miss one st, 1 tr, 1 ch, repeat from * ending round by fastening to 3rd ch at beginning of round. You will have 40 spaces to thread the tie through.

Tie
*Chain until you have half the length for the tie you need. Working into the back ridge work 1ss into the 2nd ch from hook. Continuing along the back ridge work 1ss into every st to the end. Do not turn. Repeat from * and you will meet up with your first half in the middle of the tie.

Fasten off and tidy away both ends.

Optional Trim
If you would like to do a jaunty rope-effect trim at the brim-turn try this technique using two contrasting colours. Work all the slip stitches into the Front Loops that were left free when you worked Round 18.

Step 1: Colour A: ss into any loop, ch 3, remove hook.

Step 2: Colour B: Miss 1 loop by the last ss of Colour A and ss into the next loop, ch 3, remove hook.

Now you keep alternating colours like this:

Step 3: Holding the other colour’s 3-ch forward to keep it out of the way, reinsert hook into previous 3-ch of colour you’ve just changed to, miss 1 loop by the last ss of the other colour and then ss into the next loop, ch 3, remove hook.

Repeat Step 3 all the way around. Stop from time to time to untwist your yarns if necessary.

Fasten off and tidy away ends.